Blog del Lanificio Paoletti

Menswear fabrics: From Follina to Europe

gamme bleu 5

…by way of talented fashion designers

As events presenting Fall/Winter 2015–16 menswear collections are winding down, let’s take a look at some of the styles shaping our wool fabrics on the runways of Europe…London, Milan and Paris.

Patterns

The overall impression is that patterned fabrics are everywhere, taking over entire outfits in a profusion of patchwork.

Moncler gamme bleu outfit

Moncler Gamme Bleu show

Next Fall/Winter, patchwork is dominating the menswear catwalks in Milan too. 

Christian Pellizzari patchwork

Christian Pellizzari show

 

Moncler Gamme Bleu show

For instance, Moncler’s collection, in a nod to 1950s’ car races, features patchwork in its menswear line. These outfits — created out of our fabrics — return to the brand’s roots with a new take on its historic quilted jacket model, donned here over combinations of check patterns like racing flags.  Our Shetland wool and lambswool — with water-repellant treatment for the outerwear — create sporty motifs in combination with technical textiles and leathers in men’s suits.

gamme bleu 5

Moncler Gamme Bleu show

Also showing in Milan was the emerging designer Christian Pellizzari, originally from Treviso. He has come to us for his fabrics since his earliest forays into fashion, and last year we were thrilled to hear that Giorgio Armani had invited him to open the Milan Fashion Week at the Armani/Teatro, after he had been a finalist on “Who Is on Next?” Menswear 2013. In his take on patchwork, he plays with a check pattern with macro/micro patterns, repeating the right-angled pattern, slanting it and shifting it from our classic textiles with technical surfaces.

We find another check pattern — now in a Canadian version — in the lumberjack patterns in Moschino’s collection presented at London’s men’s fashion week. Our wool mill gave fresh expression to the theme in vibrant, out-of-the-ordinary colors.

The check fabric we created for Moschino

Our fabric, used by Moschino

The check in Moschino outfit

Moschino show

Ever true to a “mix and match” approach, Moschino gave a Scottish mood to its collection, pairing our plaids with sheepskin coats and fur hats.

The tartan we created for Moschino

Our fabric, used by Moschino

The tartan in Moschino outfit

Moschino show

Our chek fabric in Moschino outfit

Moschino show

Surfaces

A fascinating aspect of how designers adapt our fabrics are the finishes they request, such as water-repellant treatments and coatings that give our fabrics a hybrid nature, pushing them beyond the bounds of our classic products. In Paris, our Shetland wools took on pastel hues for Walter Van Beirendonck, and he asked to soften them with our lambswool yarn as a foundation for his hieroglyphic-like messages.

Walter Van B outfit

Walter Van Beirendonck show

Walter Van B. a/w 2015 outfit

Walter Van Beirendonck show

Walter Van B. man outfit

The erstwhile separation between fabrics for men and women’s clothes has become obsolete, as clearly evinced in Gabriele Pasini’s widespread use of bouclé yarn in his menswear pieces for Lardini.

Silhouette

One recurring accessory softens many of these masculine silhouettes: a maxi scarf; in some of Moschino’s outfits, the scarf virtually replaces an overcoat, conveying a blanket’s almost primordial sense of protection.

MOSCHINO maxi scarf

MOSCHINO maxi scarf

For Christian Pellizzari’s iconic maxi scarf, we could even say it destructures the overcoat to an extreme.

Christian Pellizzari maxi scarf

Christian Pellizzari show

maxi scarf in christian pellizzari outfit

Christian Pellizzari show

This is even clearer in the F/W 15/16 outfits of the Swedish brand Our Legacy in its contemporary take on a brushed wool plaid from the Scottish tradition.

our legacy maxi scarf

Our fabric

Our maxi scarf in Our Legacy outfit

Our Legacy Presentation

Our Legacy outfit

Details

Many of these outfits have one recurring detail: fringe, a defining feature of many accessories and jackets alike.

christian pellizzari fringes

Our fabric with a fringe

Christian Pellizzari fringes jacket

Christian Pellizzari fringe

Menswear fabrics: From Follina to Europe ultima modifica: 2015-02-27T13:47:24+00:00 da Elena Farinelli
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