The exclusive fabrics of the renowned Wool Mill Paoletti are showcased by Saint Laurent and Vivienne Westwood
Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear during the Paris Fashion Week
Spring has passed and Summer’s almost gone, and the season’s constant changing is perfectly embodied in the alternating patterns of stripes. These dialectic characters are a perfect representation of the conflict between the forces of positive and negative, good and evil, night and day, and Summer and Winter; so much so, that some designers have placed this ubiquitous theme centre stage as Saint Laurent and Vivienne Westwood’s 2016 Spring-Summer fashion collection. Given the current state of global affairs–specifically the enflaming tensions between countries, and the push-pull between Chaos and Order, our two fashion maestros have commissioned the stripe as a befitting trademark of today’s troubling times. Speaking on the subject of stripes, one of the founders of punk rock found that stripes would be an excellent look on the political elite. This trend could be rather revolutionary; so much that we had to showcase the campaign “Politicians are Criminals”, which places the decadent ruling class in the spotlight as the culprits of many of society’s social ills. Given the polemics of our leaders on such topics as climate change, which threatens the extinction of all life on our planet, mindless wars on other countries that threaten our national security, and economic scandal and corruption through international banking cartels, we wanted to insinuate that social problems are not simply “black and white” by communicating them in a variety of complex yet unapologetic styles.
1977: The Sex Pistols sing, “No Future (God Save the Queen)”
The theme of “No Future” is one of many recipes in the Anarchist Cookbook, and during the exhibition, many were greeted by it in the form of prints, checkered patterns, and brooches complemented by every dissidents favourite ingredient: the hashtag. Brandishing the hashtag #PoliticiansRCriminals echoed the sentiment of the central theme, but the playful competition between rows of colours became the real stars in Paoletti’s exhibition, where light cotton trousers were given a touch of nihilism and pandemonium along with the Westwood’s other unruly tops and accessories.
Revolutions come in cycles, and Saint Laurent’s tribute to Kurt Cobain’s edgy grunge style was the perfect successor to Westwood’s homage to the Sex Pistols. Sunglasses are worn even in the dark of night, and long, flowing hair is juxtaposed on a lineup of lumberjack-clad, plaid polyester shirts. Combined with the traditional style of ramshackled ripped jeans and abused sneakers, Laurent’s lineup of jaded models had an amazing impact on the audience, as onlookers were reminded of Generation Y’s most model antihero.
Out of this fashion dialectic, Lanificio Paoletti gave birth to the textile for a “rainbow” jacket; a multicolored accessory to fully complement the chaotic patterns of our postmodern world. Stripes fight for placement on a poncho-styled jacket accompanied with leather sleeves, collars and cuffs, all while bearing the salient “Stars and Stripes” of the American flag.