THAT’S PITTI COLOR!
The theme proposed by Pitti Uomo for its June 2015 exhibition is color in all its aspects. Bright hues are flaunted across an array of styles, from the classic and always stylish garments to more edgy models such as ‘Unconventional’, ‘My Factory’ and ‘The Latest Fashion Buzz’ as curated in the pavilions.
The colors illustrate worlds where creative options are endless. Through the use of various colour schemes, designers have the opportunity to display their best and achieve eccentric shades that are full of intensity. Walking within the massive and opulent Florentine exhibition path, you can perceive how the different voices of fashion are reflected through their garments and have combined themes proposed by the hall.
CLASSIC TRENDS: THE TIMELESS CHARM OF THE RIVIERA
Classic trends have become characterized by colours that bring to mind a sense of freshness and dynamism. The jacket is once again the protagonist of innovations related to men’s fashion. The outerwear proposed by Pitti Immagine is connoted by patterns of colours and textures inspired by the ’70s, available in tones that match and contrast simultaneously. Inside the hall, you can also find chequered and striped patterns, which have remained evergreen throughout contemporary fashion; however, a new trend is taking root in 2015— outerwear garments dyed with denim effects and contrasting stitching. Bright spots offer detail that break the classic monochromatic designs of some clothing: blue, beige and brown jackets are made vivid by yellow buttons, red undercollars, orange linings, and bright hues revers. One can find an entirely different character in one of the linen vests, which, through their watercolour effect, suggest the idea of a man from another time.
Arrays of blue shades are establishing itself more and more as a new symbol of elegance. Royal blue, for example, accentuates very thin summer scarves and silky ties, giving them an air of business glamour. Indigo, alluding the ambience of the Riviera, is chosen for linen t-shirts and unlined blazers. No longer remaining solid, blue hues have morphed into micro patterns, tone-on-tone or contrasting micro textures, and is commonly featured on jackets and clothing. Of course, a businessman cannot give up his bag. Pitti offers unisex-style bags for work and leisure, with interchangeable elements such as device pockets and aggressively shaped stripes. The materials used are extremely varied: from combinations of fabric and smooth leather to full grain calfskin and very precious leathers. Whether it’s a bag inspired by a maritime lifestyle, a minimalist backpack, or a weekend bag, there is a colour code to be met. Some must-have hues for 2015 are navy blue, sunflower, emerald green and sky blue, burgundy and gray.
CASUAL – LIGHTNESS AND COLOUR FOR A DYNAMIC MAN
Within the framework of casual, the boho-chic look is cutting-edge and somewhere between 70’s American Vintage and British Street. The clothes that have stemmed from this union are distinguished by their incisive character. Casual not only implies sporty, but also comfortable—precisely why the exhibited items are made with windproof, water resistant and ultra lightweight fabrics. The mix and match between denim and lightweight materials such as linen and cotton is also an increasingly prominent trend.
Colour has also gained a prominent victory in the field of knitwear and t-shirts, which dare to combine with soft shades like apple, green, and magenta. Lively colours are a must even on linen trousers, combined with tailored jackets, vests and anoraks—of course, using the same shade. The world of jackets is variegated. Again, for the casual man who still likes to enjoy a touch of class, the must-have is a blue trench coat. The striped white and blue ones, along with their delicate micro-patterns that convey freshness and lightness, boast the most relaxed appeal. For lovers of full colour there are also extremely lively trench coats, sand-tinted parkas, and printed linings. Prints and floral patterns are also present amongst slim-fit trousers, denim shirts, swim shorts and practical five pockets. There is great boldness in accessories, especially in the realization of men’s shoes. Sneakers, along with slip-ons, trainers, espadrilles, and other footwear are back in style. The interweaving of calf leathers, canvas, and fabrics creates new textures and shapes. The primary colours, then, together with green, black, and white, are light shades, which give the shoes vitality and charm almost like dripping art.
AVANT-GARDE – AFTER GENDER FUTURE BETWEEN TROPICAL PRINTS, AND SAHARAN SHAPES
The Avant-Garde genre has proposed the concept of “after gender” fashion, i.e. unisex garments with wearability, deliberately unchanged for men and women. It is an aesthetic evolution that renders any gender distinction irrelevant and flatters through smooth lines and oversize clothing, blurring the physical differences between male and female. Experimentation is at the core of this field: fashion designers dare to mix everything from classic styles to sportswear, soft nuances to electric shades, solid colours with floral prints or geometric patterns. The influences are many: the stylists are inspired by military gear, but also by British streetwear, rock ‘n roll, and punk rock fashion. The avant-garde is a trend that prefers to experiment with fabrics with very different characteristics amongst them rather than colour. In fact, even for 2016, total black-white contrast has increased, in addition to the use of studded leather jacket with buckles, white denim, precious materials, and hi-tech details.
Colour, however, is more prominent amongst knitwear, shirts and outerwear. The knitwear proposed by Pitti is strongly characterized by shapes and colours of African inspiration. Linen shirts and beachwear, with their tropical garden prints, are full of irony and break the austerity of total blackness. The jackets are a ménage between formal and casual, and their lively effect is exhibited by the play of contrast between the lining and outer fabrics. Even if the outside of a garment looks sober, with its deck stripes, liners are the precious elements that enliven outerwear: the interiors of clothes are often characterized by Japanese drawings or yellow, turquoise and mint green geometrical prints.
Among accessories, we remember espadrilles, loved by fashion victims through the scope of the industry’s continuous experimentation. They are available in several versions within Pitti footwear’s collection, from the most classic linen styles and cotton all the way to espadrilles made of python skin. Great attention in design has been given to urban sneakers, featuring leather inserts, studs and contrast stitching. Even for the avant-garde man, bags are a must. The most popular models are backpacks and weekend bags—in strong colours, of course.
For 2016, and especially for the Paoletti wool factory, which is always active in the wake of new trends, we have decided to focus on strong colours in order to communicate the emotions inside us. In our next post, we will reveal the chromatic palette we have proposed for the 2016 spring/ summer collection; one full of freshness and positivity!