Exclusive wool fabrics of the Paoletti Wool Mill for Alberta Ferretti and Moschino
PATCHING THINGS UP:
American pioneers of the patchwork technique coined it so because they literally took patches of old cloth and sewed them together to make intricate patterns in a single, large fabric. Although patchwork has been practiced since ancient times, America transformed the pastime into a truly organic culture, evolving from the ‘needle and thread’ version of a Coat-of-Arms, in which entire family tree spanning generations was meticulously woven together to communicate a timeline of their bloodline. The final product was a testament to the family’s origins, location, and significant events that had taken place throughout the course of their collective experiences.
This 2016 Spring-Summer precollection aims to recapture the spirit of this timeless tradition through the juxtoposition of various colours, textures, and elements.
Moschino’s Jeremy Scott leads the dichotomous staging of the fashion industry’s commercialisation. Through the same patchwork methodology, he weaves together the theme of fashion and superimposes it onto a woman’s body as if it were packaging. This concept was famously illustrated in previous works by Barbara Kruger. Moschino takes her work a step further by shamelessly parading his brand along with chains, leather, and gaudy quilted tweed, in a menagerie of fabrics that demonstrate the strong relationship between the purchaser and the designer.
Conversely, Alberta Ferretti has bestowed a rustic look (which is quite endemic to patchwork) onto outfits such as business suits, dresses and coats. Her new line of ‘Summertime formalwear’ blends the mild astuteness of business casual with the bucolic textures, tones, and cross-stitching of contrasting materials, giving her outfits a down-to-earth, yet richly unqiue combination of lurex that has been subltly, but discordantly nestled amongst sandy hues.
We look forward to bringing you more on the subject of tweed. Stay tuned for further articles!
Digital collage of Martina Bernardi: [PHOTO] Quilting: The Fabric of Everyday Life by Marybeth C. Stalp, depicting the construction of a patchwork quilt in the 40s. The blanket was substituted with a close-up of a skirt patchwork from the 2016 Moschino Spring and Summer precollection, fabrics made at the Paoletti Wool Mill.