In our last post we gave an overview of the collections that European fashion designers conjured out of Lanificio Paoletti’s fabrics for next Fall/Winter 2015-16’s menswear.
As the Paris Fashion Week winds up, let’s take a look at some of the collections starring our wool on the womenswear catwalks — this time going beyond Europe to include the United States too!
In the eyes of our customers, next Fall/Winter womenswear fashion seems full of references to film and paintings, punctuated by whimsical style and suggestions of nomadic lifestyles.
From left: Brooke Shields in the role of Violet in Pretty Baby(Malle, 1978); Giulietta Masina in the role of Gelsomina in La Strada (Fellini, 1954); Courtney Love; Portrait of a Young Woman (Botticelli, 1484); French vintage posters.
Let’s go ahead and start with New York. Here Lanificio Paoletti’s fabrics debuted on the very first day of the womenswear fashion week at the presentation of the RED Valentino collection.
When Fellini’s La Strada came out in 1954, he seemed to distance himself from realism by spotlighting the dreaming, ingenuous Italy from the countryside, through an extravagant company of acrobats, most notably Gelsomina, played by Giulietta Masina. The RED Valentino collection drew inspiration from this humble yet spiritualist atmosphere, like a fairy tale full of magicians and lumberjacks.
Sticking to the theme of travel, the Diesel Black Gold collections links a feminine image to the biker world, influenced by an ultra famous picture by Peter Lindbergh.
Diesel Black Gold fashion show, Fall Winter 2015-16, New York; Wild at Heart: Photograph by Peter Lindbergh, styled by Grace Coddington, Vogue in America, September 1991. Picturing: Cindy Crawford, Tatjana Patitz, Helena Christensen, Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Karen Mulder and Stephanie Seymour.
Let’s head over to Italy, where the roots of our culture, the Italian Renaissance, shaped Alberta Ferretti’s collection. Back in 1952, Giovanni Battista Giorgini had already intelligently drawn from this wellspring of artistic and historical inspirations to build the image of Italian haute couture. Alberta Ferretti used our fabric to express elaborate Botticelli weaves on the surface of two outfits featuring a warm fall palette.
Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini brings us back to the movies, referencing the controversial 1978 film, Pretty Baby, set in the 1910s in a New Orleans red light district, with a young, enchanting Brooke Shields playing Violet, a 12-year-old prostitute. A candid vision of aspects of daily life is embodied in romantic femininity.
In the Paris Fashion Week — perhaps the most hotly anticipated — our fabrics made appearances in Lanvin, and Nina Ricci’s collections.
For Lavin, our fabrics were part of designer Alber Elbaz’s declaration of attachment to his origins, telling us about his childhood in Morocco, before he emigrated to Israel when he was ten. His dreamy vision of women fashion is reminiscent of the Tuareg nomads long ago.
Lanvin fashion show, Fall/Winter 2015-16, Paris; Tuareg nobles in the early twentieth century, picture from the book The Worldwide History of Dress by Patricia Rieff Anawalt.
With Nina Ricci, the fringe element is rendered a piece of jewelry, applied to a golden bracelet and peeking out of the sleeve of the coat made of our wool. .